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Inventory Site Record

St Bartholomew-the-Great Churchyard (City of London)

Brief Description

St Bartholomew-the-Great was originally the church of the Priory founded here in 1123 by Rahere, who also founded St Bartholomew's Hospital nearby. He was buried here in 1143 and has a C15th monument in the church. In 1133 the Priory established Bartholomew Fair, which became the largest cloth fair in the country and continued until 1855. The Priory was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539; the nave of the church was demolished and the churchyard created here, although the Priory gateway remains. From here a straight path leads to the church entrance with the principal area of former churchyard on the left now laid out as a raised garden, reached by steps from the path. There are a number of headstones in the grass, and trees include London plane and an English yew planted to commemorate the 850th anniversary of the Priory Church. An informal garden to the south-east of the church is overlooked from Bartholomew Close.

Practical Information
Previous / Other name:
Priory Church
Site location:
West Smithfield/Little Britain/Bartholomew Close
Postcode:
EC1A 7JQ
What 3 Words:
shirts.topic.learn
Type of site:
Public Gardens
Borough:
City of London
Open to public?
Yes
Opening times:
churchyard unrestricted, apart from sunken garden area behind church. Church open Sun 8.30am-1pm/2.30-8pm; Tue-Fri 8.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-1.30pm.
Has taken part in Open Garden Squares Weekend 2 times, most recently in 2025.
Special conditions:
Facilities:
Events:
Events / concerts in church
Public transport:
Tube: Farringdon, Barbican (Hammersmith & City, Metropolitan, Circle). Rail: Farringdon, Barbican
Research updated:
01/05/2008
Last minor changes:
21/06/2024

Please check with the site owner or manager for latest news. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/openspaces; www.greatstbarts.com

Full Site Description

St Bartholomew-the-Great Church was originally the church of the Priory founded here in 1123 by Rahere, a monk formerly a courtier and jester of Henry I, who also founded St Bartholomew's Hospital nearby (q.v.). Rahere had a vision of St Bartholomew when he was making a pilgrimage to Rome as a sick man, and made a vow to found a priory and hospital for the poor and sick in Smithfield on his return. He died in 1143 and is buried here, and has a C15th monument in the church. The Hospital and Priory gradually became separate and were independent institutions by 1420, the Priory later dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539. West Smithfield was the site of Roman cemetery and later a famous horse fair which continued throughout the Middle Ages. In 1133 the Priory established Bartholomew Fair through a royal charter, a 3-day event on the eve, day and morrow of St Bartholomew's Day. The Fair became the largest cloth fair in the country, the Priory receiving income from tolls, and it continued until 1855 when it was suppressed, having become disreputable. Before the establishment of the Priory West Smithfield had been used for public executions, a practice that continued until the C18th; Sir William Wallace was famously put to death here in 1305.

When the Priory was surrendered to Henry VIII in 1539, the nave of the priory church was demolished and the churchyard was created here. In 1546/7 Sir Richard Rich bought the church and subdivided the Priory lands, laying out housing on part of the site (housing development which pre-dated that of Covent Garden by 30 years), and the parish was established in 1548. By the 1550s the area was largely built up. William Hogarth was born nearby and was baptised here in 1697. The gateway into the forecourt and churchyard is the remains of the Augustinian Priory that stood where the church is now, with a straight path which leads to the church entrance. This gatehouse was restored in 1932 'in memory of the two brothers Sir Aston Webb and Edward Alfred Webb FSA also of Frederick L Dove DL FSA who worked together on the restoration of the fabric of the church for over 40 years'.

The principal area of churchyard that remains is now a garden on the left of the path raised by some 3 ft and having a dark knapped flint retaining wall with stone coping; steps lead up to the grass with surrounding path, a number of seats and some shrub beds. There are a number of headstones some of which are set into the grass and trees including London plane, and an English yew planted to commemorate the 850th anniversary of the Priory Church. The garden was laid out by Fanny Wilkinson, landscape gardener of the MPGA, in 1885. On the right of the path is a private garden with substantial railings in the ownership of St Bartholomew's Hospital. An informal garden is to the south-east of the church overlooked from Bartholomew Close, with trees including a mulberry tree, paths and some beds next to the church.

Sources consulted:

B. Cherry and N. Pevsner, 'The Buildings of England, London Vol. l: The Cities of London and Westminster', London, 1985; Simon Bradley & Nikolaus Pevsner, 'The Buildings of England, London 1: The City of London', 1997 (1999 ed.); London Diocesan Advisory Committee for the Care of Churches data; C of L Smithfield Conservation Area Character Statement, 1996; Elizabeth Crawford, 'Enterprising Women: The Garretts and their Circle' (Francis Boutle Publishers, 2nd ed. 2009)

Further Information (Planning and Conservation)
Grid ref:
TQ319817 (531993,181729)
Size in hectares:
0.0744 + 0.0171
Site ownership:
Diocese of London
Site management:
City of London Corporation Open Spaces Dept. (public area)
Date(s):
C12, 1698, 1893
Designer(s):
1893: MPGA (Fanny Wilkinson)
Listed structures:
LBI: St Bartholomew-the-Great Church. LBII*: Gateway on West Smithfield.
On National Heritage List for England (NHLE), Parks & Gardens:

No
Registered common or village green on Commons Registration Act 1965:

No
Protected under London Squares Preservation Act 1931:

No

Local Authority Data

The information below is taken from the relevant Local Authority's planning legislation, which was correct at the time of research but may have been amended in the interim. Please check with the Local Authority for latest planning information.

On Local List:
No
In Conservation Area:
Yes
Conservation Area name:
Smithfield
Tree Preservation Order:
No
Nature Conservation Area:
No
Green Belt:
No
Metropolitan Open Land:
No
Special Policy Area:
Yes - St Paul's Heights Policy Area (part)
Other LA designation:
Strategic Viewing Corridor
Photos

St Bartholomew-the-Great Churchyard

St Bartholomew-the-Great Churchyard, May 2008. Photo: S Williams

Cloth Fair Hidden Garden - Colin Wing - June 2024
2024
Western Entrance from Smithfield to St Bartholomew-the-Great, July 2010. Photo: S Williams
2010
Approach to St Bartholomew-the-Great Church and Raised Churchyard Garden, July 2010. Photo: S Williams
2010
St Bartholomew-the-Great, Garden flanking church, July 2010. Photo: S Williams
2010
St Bartholomew-the-Great, September 2001. Photo: S Williams
2001
Engraving of St Bartholomew's the Great, Western Entrance in Smithfield, 1837 reproduced from Godwin, 'The Churches of London' Vol I, 1838
1837

Click a photo to enlarge.

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